Ageing is unfortunately unavoidable,
written in the report of each cell from our body. It is noted
especially on our skin and is observed with not very aesthetic
signs. Face: wrinkles and flaccidity on contours. Body: expansion on
arms and legs.
Aggravating Elements
In spite of genetic biases that
accelerate the ageing process, sun exposure is the main aggravating
element.
Ultraviolet rays alter the skin proteins and induce the formation of
free radicals that damage the structures of the cells and modify the
quality production of new cells.
On the other hand, our way of living: alcohol, diets, stress, lack of
dream, smoking, wind or heat exposure and some medicines, are
elements that modify the capacity of our skin to be renewed. The
fatigue is more visible and the features become more stressed.
Our Age
Ageing produces a series of alterations
in the skin, such as: wrinkled skin, yellowish colour, flaccidity,
rugged skin, small blood vessels and brown or white spots.
20: fragility on the eye contour, and even some wrinkles, may be
observed.
30: wrinkles around the eyes and expression wrinkles (appearance of
wrinkles after smiling and front lines).
40: wrinkles around the eyes are completely implanted, as well as
those of expression. Skin is drier, fatigue is more visible, makeup
does not suit well, and wrinkles are well expressed around the eyes
and lips. Flaccidity begins in the inner part of arms and legs.
50: the first signs of flaccidity on the face are observed. At this
time, also appear brown spots (senile freckles) on hands and face.
The accentuation of aging is due to the disappearance of collagen,
especially type III, responsible for the firmness and the
elasticity. Later, the menopause begins, that is to say, the
production of some hormones is stopped (estrogens and progesterone),
favouring the acceleration of skin aging, and particularly skin
dryness, brown spots and body flaccidity.
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Prevention Measures
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Contrarily to what most of
the people think, there is no need to wait for having signs of skin
aging to start treating it. In fact, prevention is one of the most
effective weapons. Therefore, it is necessary to use cosmetic
products, although you are still young. A specific product related
to the age and adapted to your needs and your way of living.
- Avoid sun-exposure without sunscreens. Sun can be a favourable
element if we take the best of it. Sunscreens with a high protection
factor (at least 15) and a moisturizing effect are recommended.
- Moisturize your skin everyday. A well-hydrated skin is not so easily
wrinkled. Hydration is a constant need, but needs may change
according to the season, age, weather... It is recommended a
moisturizing product adapted to the needs and the circumstances.
- Use prevention and treatment products adapted to your age and your
skin. The age of the skin is not always that of the calendar.
According to the diagnosis, your doctor will advise you the product
that will adapt to the needs of your skin.
- Use cosmetic products adapted to fragile zones.
The eyes and lips contours are the first areas where aging is seen.
Therefore, an eye and lip contour gel or cream must be used from the
twenties to prevent periocular wrinkles.
After the fifties, it is advisable to apply daily a specific product
for the neck. The body also needs a specific treatment, especially
on the bust and the inner part of the arms and legs to fight
flaccidity.
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Treatment for ageing skin
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Until very recently, there
wasn't any medical treatment for ageing. Most of the well-known
therapies were lifting, chemical peelings, collagen implants, etc.
These procedures were expensive and didn't succeed in recovering the
skin damage observed by microscope. They simply stretched out the
skin with an improvement of the look, but this skin continued being
damaged.
Glycolic Acid
Alphahydroxyacids (AHA)
supplement and accentuate the benefits of tretinoin. They are a
group of acids contained in natural fruits, like grapes, apples,
oranges and sugar cane. The most known ingredient is glycolic acid,
an AHA obtained from sugar cane, which was introduced in Europe in
1990 by SeSDerma Laboratories. A wide range of products containing
this acid is available, but not all of them have the high quality as
the products mentioned. Glycolic Acid, besides accentuating
epidermal renewal and cleaning the skin through a mild peeling
effect, also has an activating action on collagen synthesis. This
action is due to cytokin activation and to an increase of the blood
perfusion. AHAs are used in the form of creams, facemasks, ampoules
and cleansing milks. Creams based on glycolic acid don't produce any
or very few irritation on the skin and they may be applied by day or
at night.
Salicylic Acid
It has been used classically in
the treatment for acne, but today it is being employing with success
in the treatment for wrinkles, since it produces superficial
exfoliation that stresses the cell renewal process, which is very
slow in the elders. In addition, Salicylic acid has a comedolityc
effect, contributing to the elimination of blackheads and impurities
from the skin. Actually, there is a wide range of products
formulated at ideal concentrations and an optimum pH, all introduced
worldwide by SeSDerma Laboratories.
Vitamin C
It's very useful to activate
collagen and also to repair aged skin. Because of its chemical
characteristics is easily oxidized and that's why it is necessary to
select high quality products, like C-vit Serum, pure vitamin C at
10% within a special container, which impedes its degradation. There
are also vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl phosphatum
magnesium, useful to promote the synthesis of collagen and to induce
a healthy colour.
Chemical Peeling
These procedures
complement the topical treatment. They should be done only by
dermatologists for quicker and complete results.
The improvement of aging, induced by a combined use of all these
products, shows beneficial results after the first month of
beginning the treatment. The first results observed are a pinkish
colour on the face and a flat, very soft and smooth texture. If the
skin has brown spots, they are attenuated, and the same occurs with
actinic keratoses "sun barks". A decrease of fine wrinkles begins 2
or 4 months later. This improvement increases the next 9-16 months.
Flaccidity improves after 12 months. In some cases, may be also
observed how bags and dark circles diminish. Benefits persist after
12-16 months, and it is necessary to make a maintenance treatment
with applications of tretinoin just once or twice a week, and also
you should apply daily glycolic acid products.
Sun exposure
Another important fact
to keep in mind is that sun-induced damage on the skin is not
completely irreversible, but rather largely improvement is achieved
when the patient stops sun-exposure. The skin possesses natural
repair mechanisms, which act in a similar way that when a person has
a wound. Therefore, if you want a skin not prematurely aged, the
first step is to stop unnecessary sun-exposure. The use of
sunscreens with SPF 15 is highly advised. It has been proven that
sunscreens impede that the elastic fibers and the collagen
disintegrate when the skin is exposed to the sun.
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When
to take more care
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to top
Tretinoin creams, as well as
Glycolic acid, Salicylic acid and Vitamin C, retard and slow skin
ageing. Sportsmen, sun lovers and people with a clear complexion
that burns easily and tan poorly, should begin a preventive
treatment from the 20 years old. People with a darker complexion
that tan deep and quickly, could begin the treatment around 30-40
years old. Creams based on glycolic acid may be used in the
adolescence because they are not drugs, but cosmetics. They
contribute in the teenagers to hydrate the skin and to acne
prevention and treatment. These products provide a pretty, pink,
smooth, terse and younger looking skin.
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SeSDERMA