Ageing is unfortunately unavoidable,
written in the report of each cell from our body. It is noted
especially on our skin and is observed with not very aesthetic signs.
Face: wrinkles and flaccidity on contours. Body: expansion on arms and
legs.
Aggravating Elements
In spite of genetic biases that
accelerate the ageing process, sun exposure is the main aggravating
element.
Ultraviolet rays alter the skin proteins and induce the formation of
free radicals that damage the structures of the cells and modify the
quality production of new cells.
On the other hand, our way of living: alcohol, diets, stress, lack of
dream, smoking, wind or heat exposure and some medicines, are elements
that modify the capacity of our skin to be renewed. The fatigue is
more visible and the features become more stressed.
Our Age
Ageing produces a series of
alterations in the skin, such as: wrinkled skin, yellowish colour,
flaccidity, rugged skin, small blood vessels and brown or white spots.
20: fragility on the eye contour, and even some wrinkles, may be
observed.
30: wrinkles around the eyes and expression wrinkles (appearance of
wrinkles after smiling and front lines).
40: wrinkles around the eyes are completely implanted, as well as
those of expression. Skin is drier, fatigue is more visible, makeup
does not suit well, and wrinkles are well expressed around the eyes
and lips. Flaccidity begins in the inner part of arms and legs.
50: the first signs of flaccidity on the face are observed. At this
time, also appear brown spots (senile freckles) on hands and face. The
accentuation of aging is due to the disappearance of collagen,
especially type III, responsible for the firmness and the elasticity.
Later, the menopause begins, that is to say, the production of some
hormones is stopped (estrogens and progesterone), favouring the
acceleration of skin aging, and particularly skin dryness, brown spots
and body flaccidity.
Prevention
Measures
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Contrarily to what most of
the people think, there is no need to wait for having signs of skin
aging to start treating it. In fact, prevention is one of the most
effective weapons. Therefore, it is necessary to use cosmetic
products, although you are still young. A specific product related to
the age and adapted to your needs and your way of living.
- Avoid sun-exposure without sunscreens. Sun can be a favourable
element if we take the best of it. Sunscreens with a high protection
factor (at least 15) and a moisturizing effect are recommended.
- Moisturize your skin everyday. A well-hydrated skin is not so easily
wrinkled. Hydration is a constant need, but needs may change according
to the season, age, weather... It is recommended a moisturizing
product adapted to the needs and the circumstances.
- Use prevention and treatment products adapted to your age and your
skin. The age of the skin is not always that of the calendar.
According to the diagnosis, your doctor will advise you the product
that will adapt to the needs of your skin.
- Use cosmetic products adapted to fragile zones.
The eyes and lips contours are the first areas where aging is seen.
Therefore, an eye and lip contour gel or cream must be used from the
twenties to prevent periocular wrinkles.
After the fifties, it is advisable to apply daily a specific product
for the neck. The body also needs a specific treatment, especially on
the bust and the inner part of the arms and legs to fight flaccidity.
Treatment
for ageing skin
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Until very recently, there
wasn't any medical treatment for ageing. Most of the well-known
therapies were lifting, chemical peelings, collagen implants, etc.
These procedures were expensive and didn't succeed in recovering the
skin damage observed by microscope. They simply stretched out the skin
with an improvement of the look, but this skin continued being
damaged.
Glycolic Acid
Alphahydroxyacids (AHA)
supplement and accentuate the benefits of tretinoin. They are a group
of acids contained in natural fruits, like grapes, apples, oranges and
sugar cane. The most known ingredient is glycolic acid, an AHA
obtained from sugar cane, which was introduced in Europe in 1990 by
SeSDerma Laboratories. A wide range of products containing this acid
is available, but not all of them have the high quality as the
products mentioned. Glycolic Acid, besides accentuating epidermal
renewal and cleaning the skin through a mild peeling effect, also has
an activating action on collagen synthesis. This action is due to
cytokin activation and to an increase of the blood perfusion. AHAs are
used in the form of creams, facemasks, ampoules and cleansing milks.
Creams based on glycolic acid don't produce any or very few irritation
on the skin and they may be applied by day or at night.
Salicylic Acid
It has been used classically in
the treatment for juvenile acne, but today it is being employing with
success in the treatment for wrinkles, since it produces superficial
exfoliation that stresses the cell renewal process, which is very slow
in the elders. In addition, Salicylic acid has a comedolityc effect,
contributing to the elimination of blackheads and impurities from the
skin. Actually, there is a wide range of products formulated at ideal
concentrations and an optimum pH, all introduced worldwide by SeSDerma
Laboratories.
Vitamin C
It's very useful to activate
collagen and also to repair aged skin. Because of its chemical
characteristics is easily oxidized and that's why it is necessary to
select high quality products, like C-vit Serum, pure vitamin C at 10%
within a special container, which impedes its degradation. There are
also vitamin C derivatives, such as ascorbyl phosphatum magnesium,
useful to promote the synthesis of collagen and to induce a healthy
color.
Chemical Peelings
These procedures complement the
topical treatment. They should be done only by dermatologists for
quicker and complete results.
The improvement of aging, induced by a combined use of all these
products, shows beneficial results after the first month of beginning
the treatment. The first results observed are a pinkish colour on the
face and a flat, very soft and smooth texture. If the skin has brown
spots, they are attenuated, and the same occurs with actinic keratoses
"sun barks". A decrease of fine wrinkles begins 2 or 4 months later.
This improvement increases the next 9-16 months. Flaccidity improves
after 12 months. In some cases, may be also observed how bags and dark
circles diminish. Benefits persist after 12-16 months, and it is
necessary to make a maintenance treatment with applications of
tretinoin just once or twice a week, and also you should apply daily
glycolic acid products.
Sun exposure
Another important fact to keep
in mind is that sun-induced damage on the skin is not completely
irreversible, but rather largely improvement is achieved when the
patient stops sun-exposure. The skin possesses natural repair
mechanisms, which act in a similar way that when a person has a wound.
Therefore, if you want a skin not prematurely aged, the first step is
to stop unnecessary sun-exposure. The use of sunscreens with SPF 15 is
highly advised. It has been proven that sunscreens impede that the
elastic fibers and the collagen disintegrate when the skin is exposed
to the sun.
When to
take more care back
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Tretinoin creams, as well as
Glycolic acid, Salicylic acid and Vitamin C, retard and slow skin
ageing. Sportsmen, sun lovers and people with a clear complexion that
burns easily and tan poorly, should begin a preventive treatment from
the 20 years old. People with a darker complexion that tan deep and
quickly, could begin the treatment around 30-40 years old. Creams
based on glycolic acid may be used in the adolescence because they are
not drugs, but cosmetics. They contribute in the teenagers to hydrate
the skin and to acne prevention and treatment. These products provide
a pretty, pink, smooth, terse and younger looking skin.
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